Tofu has this sort of angelic reputation, but it can slum it with the best of them. I wouldn’t call Yottam Ottolenghi’s black pepper tofu trashy, but it’s certainly not the light, healthy food you might imagine when you think of tofu. This tofu is fried until golden and crisp, the sauce is butter-based, and it’s sticky with salty soy sauce and sugars that are cooked until caramelized.

I was cleaning up splatters and licking my fingers. This is indulgent weekend food that knocks the halo right off tofu.