One December day in New York, on the first really snowy day of that winter, I went to M. Wells Dinette at MoMA PS1. It was cold enough outside that I passed over the things I probably should have ordered...
Leeks, spinach and arugula are always around, and when you puree them, fold them into little doughy pockets and float them in a light broth, you can fake it (spring) until you (it) make it (actually shows up).
One day in late spring I was cooking so many things at once that my counter was covered in tough, outer baby artichoke leaves, leek tops and empty pea pods. I could have tossed them all out but I bagged...